Gourmet History: Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo

Today we inaugurate a new section: "Gourmet History". A tribute to those places, gastronomic temples, that are part of the culture and idiosyncrasy of each region, that have endured over time, and are hallmarks of the city to which they belong.

The abacería is a concept that has played a fundamental role in Seville, reflecting the rich commercial and cultural history of the city. The word "abacería" comes from the Arabic term "al-baṣṣār", which refers to a place where provisions and food products are sold in small quantities. In Seville, abacerías have been for centuries a fundamental piece of the social and economic fabric.

The concept of the abacería has woven a history that goes back centuries, enveloping the city in a mantle of tradition and flavor. The abacerías, born from the rich mixture of cultures that has characterized Seville, emerged as guardians of the culinary secrets and the commercial soul of the city.

Medieval Origins

Imagine Seville in the Middle Ages, a hive of activity and a melting pot of cultures. After the Reconquista in 1248, the city became a prosperous meeting point for Christian, Jewish, and Muslim merchants. It was in this vibrant context that the first abacerías emerged, small grocery stores that spread throughout the neighborhoods, offering Sevillians essential products such as oil, wine, legumes, and spices. On every corner, an abacería was much more than a simple business; it was a place where voices and aromas intertwined, creating a daily symphony of Sevillian life.

The Renaissance of Commerce and the Discovery of America

With the arrival of the Renaissance and the discovery of America, Seville rose as the gateway of Europe to the New World. Galleons loaded with treasures and new products crossed the ocean, and abacerías, always attentive to new products, began to offer cocoa, potatoes, and corn. The small stores became windows to a broader and more exotic world, where customers could delight in the flavors brought from distant lands. The abacerías flourished, adapting and growing in an environment of constant change and opportunity.

The Era of Industrialization

The 19th century brought industrialization and rapid urban growth. Seville, in its transformation, saw central markets and the first organized stores begin to compete with traditional abacerías. However, they did not disappear; on the contrary, they adapted resiliently. Abacerías continued to be the soul of the neighborhoods, places where quality and closeness to neighbors were the main attractions. The shopkeepers knew their customers by name, and abacerías became a refuge of authenticity amid the urban whirlwind.

The Transformation of the 21st Century

Moving into the 21st century, Sevillian abacerías face monumental challenges. Supermarkets and large surfaces seem destined to overshadow them. However, a new wave of interest in local gastronomy and artisanal products has rescued these small jewels of tradition from oblivion. Modern abacerías, combining the best of both worlds, begin to offer gourmet, local, and sustainable products, transforming themselves also into tasting and socializing places. They become scenarios where history is savored in every bite, attracting both Sevillians and visitors eager to discover the authentic flavors of the city.

The Cultural Renaissance

Today, Seville's abacerías are much more than simple stores. They are the beating heart of the neighborhoods, meeting points where generations mix and life is shared. On their counters, delicacies that tell stories of yesteryear are displayed, while at their tables people disconnected from technology gather to chat, have a wine, and enjoy tapas that encapsulate the essence of Sevillian cuisine. Abacerías have managed to reinvent themselves without losing their soul, embracing modernity without forgetting their roots.

Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo

In the heart of the San Lorenzo neighborhood, in a Seville brimming with history and tradition, lies the Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo. This establishment, whose origin dates back to immemorial times, has witnessed the evolution of the city and the lives of its inhabitants. The abacería was born on a small corner of Calle Teodosio. In its early days, it was a modest grocery store where neighbors came to stock up on basic products such as oil, wine, legumes, and spices.

Today, the Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo is much more than a simple commercial establishment. It is a cozy and authentic corner where visitors can enjoy updated traditional Andalusian dishes, in an environment that evokes the rich cultural heritage of Seville. Pisto with shrimp tortilla, stew croquettes, patatas bravas with pork rinds, and sirloin with whiskey sauce are just some of the delicacies that diners can taste. Each dish tells a story, each bite is a journey through time.

A Journey Through Flavors

At Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo, Sevillian culinary art unfolds in all its glory, offering diners an experience that goes beyond the simple act of eating. It is a journey through traditional Andalusian flavors, updated with a modern touch, all in an environment that breathes authenticity and warmth.

The Pisto Feast: The menu begins with a delight for the senses: the traditional pisto with shrimp tortilla. This dish combines the richness of fresh vegetables, cooked slowly to achieve perfect harmony, with the delicacy and crispiness of a shrimp tortilla, a gem of Cadiz cuisine that finds its perfect pairing here.

The Memory Croquettes: Following tradition, stew croquettes emerge as a tribute to the flavors of yesteryear. In every bite, the essence of the stew is revived, condensed into a creamy texture and wrapped in a thin crispy layer, transporting the palate to Andalusian homes of past generations.

The Bravas Potatoes Festival: For those seeking a bolder experience, bravas potatoes accompanied by pork rinds are a sublime choice. This dish combines the mild spiciness of brava sauce with the strength and unmatched flavor of pork rinds, creating an explosion of flavors that delights and surprises in every bite.

The Sovereign Sirloin: As the main dish, the sirloin with whiskey sauce presents itself as the epitome of rustic sophistication. The meat, tender and juicy, is bathed in a whiskey sauce that enhances its natural qualities, offering a perfect combination of strength and subtlety that melts in the mouth and leaves an indelible impression.

A Gift to Emperor Theodosius

On January 11, 2024, Sevillian lawyer Luis Miguel Martín Rubio decided to reopen this iconic Seville establishment.

[perfectpullquote align="full" bordertop="false" cite="" link="" color="" class="" size=""]If he were alive, Theodosius would have turned 1677 years old. The establishment is located on the street dedicated to this Roman emperor who was born in Italica, Seville. We thought announcing the reopening of this beloved Seville spot would be the best gift we could give him.[/perfectpullquote]

Luis Miguel Martín Rubio is a prominent figure in Seville's business, cultural, and social scene, known for his passion and dedication to the preservation and revitalization of Andalusian traditions. As the visionary behind the reopening of the Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo, Luis Miguel has proven to be a fervent advocate of culture, combining his love for history and gastronomy in every aspect of his work.

He is not just an entrepreneur; he is a custodian of cultural heritage. His commitment to preserving Sevillian traditions is reflected in every corner of the Abacería de San Lorenzo, a place where the city's rich heritage is honored. He has turned the abacería into a space where culture is not only preserved but lived and celebrated daily, creating a bridge between the past and the present.

This charming establishment is not just a place to eat; it is an immersive experience that transports its visitors through time, offering a window to the past with every dish and every carefully decorated corner. Its cozy and authentic atmosphere, along with its exquisite cuisine, make the Abacería de San Lorenzo a must-visit place for anyone visiting Seville.

Places to Visit Around the Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo:

1. Basilica del Gran Poder: Just steps away from the abacería, you will find the Basilica del Gran Poder, one of Seville's most revered temples. Here you can admire the impressive image of Jesús del Gran Poder, one of the most emblematic figures of Seville's Holy Week.
2. Seville Museum of Fine Arts: A short walk from San Lorenzo will take you to the Museum of Fine Arts, considered one of the best art museums in Spain. It houses a rich collection of Andalusian Baroque paintings, with masterpieces by Murillo, Zurbarán, and Velázquez.
3. Alameda de Hércules: The Alameda de Hércules, a few minutes' walk away, is one of the oldest public spaces in Europe. This vibrant boulevard is the perfect place to enjoy a leisurely stroll, surrounded by tapas bars, terraces, and nightlife.
4. Church of San Lorenzo: Right in the heart of the neighborhood, the Church of San Lorenzo is another point of interest. This 14th-century church houses beautiful altarpieces and is home to the brotherhood of Jesús del Gran Poder.
5. Convent of San Clemente: Located near the neighborhood, this old convent offers a unique view of Seville's religious heritage. It is known for its impressive architecture and peaceful atmosphere.
6. Feria Street: One of the oldest streets in Seville, Feria Street, is famous for its market and bohemian atmosphere. Here you can find fresh produce, antiques, and experience the authentic Sevillian neighborhood life.
7. Barqueta Bridge: A few minutes towards the Guadalquivir River, the Barqueta Bridge offers a spectacular view of the river and is a gateway to the Isla de la Cartuja, where several parks and cultural spaces are located.
8. Andalusian Center for Contemporary Art: Crossing the Barqueta Bridge, on the Isla de la Cartuja, is the Andalusian Center for Contemporary Art, located in the old Monastery of the Cartuja. It is a fascinating place to explore modern and contemporary art in a historical setting.

Antigua Abacería de San Lorenzo

Address: C. Teodosio, 53, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Seville
Phone: +34 954 91 10 63